Welsh born chef Hywel Griffith is the perfect expression of a game loving chef. He hunts and shoots and trained in kitchens that take game seriously – The Chester Grosvenor, Ynyshir & The Freemasons at Wiswell. Now he has a Michelin star at The Beach House in Oxwich on the Welsh coast.
We caught up with him to get his thoughts on game and game cookery.
“Game to me is a fantastic, diverse and sustainable British product from Partridge, Rabbits, Grouse all the way up to the largest wild mammal we have in the UK the Red Deer. To me as a chef it’s important to follow seasons as that’s when produce is at its best (I mean why would you cook an ingredient when it’s at its poorest condition?).
“I am myself a hunter. I stalk deer and wild boar and take a few mallards and geese. Game meat is brilliant for cooking. It’s healthy and it has a low carbon footprint. Its rich in iron, vitamins, high in protein and very low in fat – aside from wild boar.
“However, when it comes to hanging game, I believe this is where game meat gets a bad rep. I have witnessed all sorts of methods, some have been good, some have been horrific. For me small game and birds should be hung a week give or take a few days.
“Muntjac and roe need 7-10 days. Fallow, Sika and reds 10-14 days all hung in fur/feather before they are prepared.
“Also don’t eat Bucks/Stags when they are rutting – the meat is tough and has an odd taste that will put people off. A Doe/Hind generally makes far better eating.
“Don’t forget that game is wild and anomalies can happen, be prepared to change menu at short notice if something isn’’t available!