Stephen Harris took over The Sportsman in Seasalter, near Whitstable, Kent, on the Thames Estuary in 1999 with his brother Philip. The pub was awarded a Michelin star in 2008 which was the first of a string of subsequent awards. Stephen is one of those classic English cooks that just knows how to do things properly. In that sense he’s very much in the same mould as Simon Hopkinson, Jenifer Paterson and even Elizabeth David. The restaurant churns its own butter and the Thames Estuary provides oysters and fish, and in front, marshland, woods and fertile soils provide meat, vegetables and game.